When it comes to skincare there’s no actual “rulebook,” just suggestions, that you should strongly listen to. Everybody has a different skin type which means that not all ingredients or all products are going to have the same effect that one could have for another. In this blog post I’m going to be introducing the most common active ingredients found in products and talking about how it works, what it does, and who it is best for. Let’s get started:

SPF (SUNSCREEN)

Remember this: If you’re not using sunscreen, you’re not doing skincare!

If there’s any one product you should use when doing skincare is SPF (Sunscreen Protection Factor), regardless of what skin type you are. Our skin has naturally made collagen and elastin that keep the skin firm and tight, giving our skin a youthful look. The problem with the sun is that those UVA and UVB rays break down that collagen and elastin in your skin and give the skin a wrinkly and saggy look to it. SPF is going to protect your skin from damage the sun causes to your skin from those rays.

We also see other problems arise without the use of sunscreen, skin cancer is the most common form of cancer and affects one in every five Americans (9500 people are diagnosed everyday in the U.S. alone). With such a high risk, sunscreen has been known to reduce the risk of squamous cell carcinoma, the second most common skin cancer, by about 40 percent, and lower the risk of melanoma by 50 percent.

NIACINAMIDE

Niacinamide is a MUST, in my opinion, for any and everyone who does skincare. This form of vitamin B-3 creates nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+/NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP+) which are two molecules necessary to the chemical reactions that are used for repairing your skin. Here’s some examples of what it does:

• Skin Immunity: Niacinamide creates the protein keratin which tightens the skin and prevents wrinkles by healing the top layer of your skin cells, keratinocytes.
• Moisture Balance: Regularly using niacinamide leads to water retention in your skin cells more effectively, which keeps your skin hydrated and helps control the oil being produced by the sebaceous glands.
• Skin Appearance: From redness to UV damage that leaves dark spots, niacinamide helps tackle those appearance issues and even out the skin.
  • Acne can be reduced with niacinamide because with the oil regulation in the skin, pores aren’t being clogged which is how acne comes to be.
  • Redness in the skin is lost because niacinamide acts as an antioxidant and clears the skin of irritation that causes that redness
  • Dark Spots can be corrected because niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes, light absorbing cells, between melanocytes, skin cell that produces the protective skin-darkening pigment, to keratinocytes.
• Environmental Protection: With sunlight, pollutions, and toxins, our skin goes through a lot of external stress. Niacinamide boosts collagen and creates keratin that will help create a barrier against those environmental stresses to make sure those stressors aren’t affecting the skin.

CERAMIDES

The skin’s natural barrier, the stratum corneum, is constantly undergoing external stress whether from sun rays or environmental factors. As we talked about earlier with niacinamide, keeping that barrier strong and hydrated means less harm done to our skin itself. Ceramides are a lipid (building blocks of living cells) naturally found in the stratum corneum, that hold our skin cells together to keep in moisture and block out harmful factors.

You can find ceramides in a lot of moisturizers and night creams so that whoever is using it gets a deep hydration. Ceramides are for everyone, but people with dry skin or any skin conditions, like eczema or rosacea, should really try to incorporate a ceramide product into their skin routine.

ACIDS

First and foremost, this is not bad acids that will poison you or melt your face off. When talking about acids in skin care we’re talking about BHA and AHA chemical exfoliants. All acids are used to breakdown dirt molecules and dead skin cells in the skin’s pores, but whether it’s a BHA or AHA will give you different results. BHA’s are used to go deeper into the skin to control excess sebum and oil production while AHA’s are used to peel the skin so a new layer of more evenly toned skin comes through. With any chemical exfoliant you want to make sure you’re

There are four major acids: Lactic, Glycolic, Salicylic, and Hyaluronic.

• Lactic Acids: These are the gentler of the acids and are an AHA. Generally people with more sensitive and dry skin use lactic acids because of its lighter exfoliating power, but also doing a good job of eventually resurfacing healthier skin.
• Glycolic Acids: This is the most common type of AHA. Made from sugar cane, this acid is found in many exfoliants but also a lot of face masks, professional treatments, and cleansing pads. Glycolic comes in concentrations of 5%, 7% or 10% depending on the level of exfoliation you’re looking for, but should only be used a few times a week because it is a stronger type of exfoliant. Use glycolic acids to reduce signs of aging and to help with any hyperpigmentation.
• Salicylic Acids: Salicylic acids are have always been known as acne treatments because of its anti-inflammatory properties. Though they mostly help with acne, this acid does help mildly prevent aging. Those who have oilier skin are the better demographic for salicylic acids because they are oil-soluble which means they’ll be able to get deeper into greasier pores. The concentrations of salicylic acids are between 0.5% to 5%, making it good for sensitive skin as well.
• Hyaluronic Acids: Hyaluronic acids are used for more hydrating purposes. This acid is a humectant, meaning the serum pulls moisture from the air into the skin to help moisturize and keep the skin plump. The issue with this product is that the effects of it are not permanent, so people who use this must do so regularly. This product is best for people with dry skin who want to just liven up the skin.

 

VITAMIN C

Vitamin C has become quite the staple in skincare because of its brightening capabilities for the skin. The breaking down of collagen that leads to unflattering skin blemishes like dark spots, saggy skin, or wrinkles can be helped with the antioxidants found in vitamin c. These antioxidants help repair that collagen to tighten and help tone out the skin.

I personally don’t use vitamin c because of its oxidation reaction. When the product is placed on the skin and exposed to oxygen it starts to react with the air around us and I personally don’t like the look of it on my skin. The biggest issue with vitamin c is its light sensitivity that leads to the breakdown of its chemical structure and can cause skin irritation. When looking for a vitamin c it’s vital to look for the product that comes in an opaque packaging, meaning the product is protected from the sunlight by the packaging.

Sources:

https://www.webmd.com/beauty/what-to-know-about-ceramides-for-skin

https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/lactic-acid-for-skin#what-it-is

https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/ingredient-spotlight/how-niacinamide-helps-skin.html

https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/face-acids-types-anti-aging#salicylic-acid